white T-shirt

My quest for the perfect plain white T-shirt

I enjoy, as a genre, any interview that accompanies the launch of a new clothing line – it is an admirable world of aggrandised nonsense. Take super-stylist Karla Welch, who has just collaborated on a collection with Justin Bieber.

This new range? Seven plain white T-shirts. In fact, supermarket-bought T-shirts “reimagined” (cut up and put back together) to best suit the star’s taste. And pray, what’s wrong with a normal white T-shirt? According to Bieber, the T-shirt he wanted “literally didn’t exist in the marketplace”.

Now I love a tee more than the next person, and arguably more than Bieber. My favourite is from Cos. Soft, firm, it hangs beautifully, and unlike thinner tees, your man boobs and beer belly don’t poke through. In fact through some dark magic they somehow make you look skinnier. And at £12 a pop, you can’t go too wrong. But the idea that a T-shirt could, to paraphrase Bieber, “push boundaries”? Maybe my commitment to Cos was stopping me from charting new territory.

This might all sound a little overblown, but this item is fairly fundamental to a man’s wardrobe: “I guess because it’s versatile, anyone can wear a white T-shirt and not be judged,” says Elgar Johnson, the fashion director at GQ Style.

There is no such thing as a plain white T-shirt. Tiny, almost imperceptible differences between them can be life-changing. It’s also the last of the great men’s staples. So many of the sacred cows of trendy menswear have been slaughtered in recent years: skinny jeans, beanie hats, bright macs, bomber jackets, hi-top trainers – all unavoidable a few years ago, now tacky and uncool. Yet the white T-shirt prevails.

They work because while white is a statement colour – if you went to a party wearing a bright white outfit, you are basically saying: “Look at me, I have arrived and I am very good at not spilling drinks on myself.” – a plain T-shirt is a deeply innocuous piece of clothing. So it lets you be both nonchalant and exceptional: the perfect crime.

To realise its power, simply think of its sworn enemy, the navy T-shirt. Imagine a man in a navy T-shirt and navy jeans: his favourite band is Kings of Leon; he hasn’t told his wife he loves her in six months; he has given up on life. You try to know more about him but you cannot, because he is already fading from view, disappearing into his own stock photo existence.

By contrast, the white T-shirt is essential not just for the summer hipster, but suits the tattooed punk, the dad that dates, the stylish hip-hop head: it is the very pinnacle of versatility, available on every high street. It is also democratic. “They look good on men and women, pop stars, royalty and builders – whoever,” says Elgar Johnson.

With that versatility and flexibility in mind, I went in search of the perfect white tee, trying a different one each day of the week.

I start my week with a Sunspel short-sleeved crew neck in white. Sunspel is an upmarket brand with a heritage, the sort of place people go to treat themselves to a pair of expensive boxers when they get a promotion. A few friends tell me their T-shirts are the best out there. At £65 a go, they really should be. The top is unbelievably soft and I feel richer as soon as I put it on. It definitely would be perfect with an overshirt or suit jacket, but it feels too much like a posh undershirt to wear on its own.

The quality of the Sunspel is all the more noticeable when I try the offering from Arket, a kind of upmarket knicknacks and basics store from the people behind H&M, which has just launched in London. Their tee is thin and scratchy, and see-through, so every hair on my chest is visible. It is so uncomfortable I have to take it off after five minutes and go back to a Cos classic.

On Wednesday, I go by the maxim that anyone who only sells one thing must be bloody good at it, and opt for online specialists The White T-shirt Company. In Bieberesque fashion, it claims to have “started with a simple goal – to design and make the perfect white T-shirt. A wardrobe classic made without compromise to quality, style or ethics.” It’s a soft, thick shirt that hangs nicely, but the look is a bit too basic, like a 1970s gym kit.

I give David Gandy’s M&S white tee a go next. It is the least flattering of the bunch, a sort of half-hearted V-neck, with a hospital-gown fit. But its softness almost makes me cry. This is the perfect bed shirt, as long no one can see you.

There is not an outfit that doesn’t work with a white tee: suits, jackets, pyjamas ... But the classic is just on its own, with blue or black jeans, harking back to the man that made them so popular: James Dean. His simple, untailored white T-shirt worn in Rebel Without a Cause led to soaring sales in the US, particularly at JC Penney, where it was rumoured Dean’s T-shirt came from.

The winner in my test comes at the end of the week from Swedish basics online store Asket. Unlike the other tees, they have offerings in five sizes and three lengths. I opt for the large-long tee and it’s perfect: thicker than the others but still quite soft, with that right James Dean-y look that means you can wear it on its own.

Supermarket and discount T-shirts still remain some of the best available; the Bieber shirts are going to be XL Hanes T-shirts taken apart and stitched back together to make them longer – you can buy a seven-pack of them for about a tenner. I have a bunch of the Hanes ones at home and I can see the appeal: the cotton feels workmanlike, almost industrial. But it is a good thing they are cheap, as you get through them quicker than dishcloths – it takes just a drip of moussaka or a wash warmer than a baby’s bath water and they’re ruined for ever. Stains expand as they reach them, like oil on water.

If you are rolling your eyes at this point, I know, they are just bloody plain T-shirts. But let me just say that at the end of the week, I did a blind feel test with five new tees, a Cos classic and my long-suffering girlfriend. She correctly recognised every one straight away. When she got to the Arket one, she said “eugh!” and threw it across the room.

Besides, there is still a level above that I haven’t reached – the designer white tee. Kanye West made a white tee with APC that cost $120 (about £90); Rick Owens, the US furniture and clothes designer, has one out this season for £179. Really though, those shirts already fail, because a white T-shirt cannot be kept for life: imagine shelling $430 for a Gucci washed cotton tee (a real thing), only to dribble down juice from a lamb shish, ruining it for ever. That’s the thing about a white T-shirt, they are transient. If you’re as dribbly as me, you have to buy one a month, so you might as well get it right.

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a Re/Done Denim Collaboration

Cindy Crawford’s #TBT Inspired a Re/Done Denim Collaboration

It’s widely understood that Kaia Gerber, the gorgeous offspring of Cindy Crawford, is following in her mother’s picture perfect footsteps. See, for example, her gig as the face of the Marc Jacobs Daisy perfume.

But now, it looks as if Crawford is drawing inspiration from her daughter. Let us explain.

Gerber, who happens to be a cool teen on the scene in L.A., is often photographed wearing reworked Levi’s jeans from denim brand of the moment, Re/Done. There was the cropped and flared pair she wore to the Tommy Hilfiger show on the West Coast this past February, and again, just a few days later in New York. The brand’s cut-off shorts have become part of her summer uniform, particularly a cuffed true blue pair she’s been wearing around Malibu.

So it seems Crawford was inspired by her progeny, as she is partnering up with Re/Done on a capsule of jeans. Aptly titled The Crawford, the three-piece range includes a re-worked pair of Levi’s 501 Original jeans in a throwback faded blue hue, a t-shirt with a nod to her famous mole and a black sweatshirt with her airbrushed portrait on the back. The jeans, which are mid-rise and slightly skinny, were inspired by a pair that Crawford wore in the ’90s and loved so much she never gave them away. The fit of the pants has been modernized for 2017, so these jeans are guaranteed to be both flattering and vintage.

But how did this range really come to be? Well, it all started with Crawford’s Instagram post (as most things do these days), which was a throwback of the model in a pair of Levis. In the caption, she wrote “Workin’ that @shopredone look before @shopredone was even born!” Touché!

The brand’s co-founder, Sean Barron, did give the model credit, admitting: “She popularized the look that is the core of the brand.” So turns out that Gerber, yet again, is simply taking style notes from her mother.

To celebrate the launch of these new Re/Done designs, Crawford has taken over the brand’s Instagram Stories. The denim line is taking the Instagram focus one step further, by offering 20 limited pieces from the collection, which can only be shopped by swiping through Stories. In addition to Instagram, the collection, which deserves the title of the sexiest mom jeans on the market, can also be scooped up at Barneys, Colette, Ron Herman Japan and on Re/Done’s website.

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タグ :style

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$2000 'Holocaust' dress

Miu Miu removes $2000 'Holocaust' dress from sale

In fashion, there are certain rules designers ought to follow, such as do not print slogans that condone drug use or the sexualisation of children.

And do not, under any circumstances, place a yellow star anywhere near the chest of any garment.

While designers sometimes plead that such stars evoke the Wild West or varsity culture (stars are cute! stars denote achievement!), the Nazis made sure that from the 1930s until forever that they will be associated with the murderous pursuit of Jews in the Holocaust.

And yet, Italian fashion giant Miu Miu got it so hopelessly wrong by producing a dress in its latest range with a yellow star patch on the chest.

Although the star is five pointed, and not the six points of the Star of David, and says "John", it didn't matter.

The outrage was swift, with Canadian shoppers at the Holt Renfrew department store among the first to alert a US-based blogger, who goes only by the name "Jewish Chick".

"I was shocked and saddened that a brand such as Miu Miu [sister brand of Prada] would bring such a design to production and a store such as [Holt Renfrew] would then sell it without question," Jewish Chick, who did not wish to give her real name, told Fairfax Media.

"While the star has five points versus six, it clearly brings back horrific images of the stars Jews were forced to wear during the Holocaust and is a direct spit in the face to the six million Jews who were massacred by the Nazis, as well as those who survived."

On Monday US time, Holt Renfrew removed the "offensive" clothing from sale and issued an apology, Jewish Chick said.

Subsequently, Preia Narendra, senior vice-president of marketing and communications at Miu Miu, sent Jewish Chick this email: "It was not Miu Miu's intent in any way to make any political or religious statement, and we apologise for any offence that may have been taken. Kindly note that effective immediately these items will be removed from the collection."

While Fairfax Media was unable to find any of the "yellow star" dresses, which would have cost more than $2000 based on similar items, online on Wednesday, e-boutique SSense was still selling a blue shirt with a red star from the collection.

In 2014, Spanish fast-fashion giant Zara pulled a children's top from sale that was striped and had a yellow star on the chest. While the star said "sherriff" and was five pointed, the striped background only added to comparisons to a concentration camp uniform.

And in 2007, Zara also had to withdraw a handbag that featured a green swastika embroidered inside a red sun.

As the grandchild of Holocaust survivors, I find myself asking how this keeps happening.

No-one is suggesting Miu Miu (or Zara before it) intended to draw Holocaust comparisons to its latest range but the use of a yellow star anywhere on a garment, especially on the chest, is considered tone deaf at best and deeply offensive at worst.

Perhaps it's time designers just ditch the yellow star as a fashion motif altogether. It's just not worth the price.

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A Fashion Star In The Making

Suhana Khan's Heavy Metal Leather Boots Will Convince You That She Is A Fashion Star In The Making

Second born of the world's second richest entertainer, Shah Rukh Khan, Suhana Khan has access to designers that most people struggle pronouncing. Yet, the 17-year-old isn't your regular millennial. For one, she refrains from sharing her exotic life experiences on social media. So, nope, she won't play the token #RichKidOfInstagram because the world expects her to. That's not to say that the teenager doesn't have access to the fab life. In the past, we have seen her push major looks in Herve Leger (her lovely mum, Gauri Khan is known to have a special place for the brand in her queen-size wardrobe) and establish herself as a dedicated consumer of high fashion.

Yesterday, the little one pulled out another one of her heavy-duty looks from her arsenal that is possibly overflowing with many such gems. For this round, Suhana took after her mom for the outfit and chose a black halter top to pair with skinny jeans. She was accompanied by besties Ananya Pandey, Ahaan Pandet and Shanaya Kapoor. The faces of tomorrow were headed to the Superdry party at the ongoing Lakmé Fashion Week.

But it was those Saint Laurent leather boots that we were most excited to see for their day out. You are looking at about Rs. 82, 000 of heavy metal, should you have found a match in this chain-wrapped pair. Jimmy Choo's signature acrylic neon sling accompanied her on this designer outing. Raise your hand if you think Suhana is finally ready to embrace her ingrained superstar status.

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Marathon Training

Kevin Hart Debuts Never-Before-Seen Nike Shoes During Marathon Training

Hollywood funnyman Kevin Hart is gearing up for another marathon, and he’s doing it in a Nike running sneaker you’ve never seen before.

Hart took to Instagram yesterday to give fans a look at his training regimen in a hurdle jumping pose. Unsurprisingly, the comedian was dressed head-to-toe in Nike, which Hart has represented as an ambassador since 2015.

While the motivational image and caption are share-worthy enough on their own, it was Hart’s kicks that caught our attention. He’s laced up in a bright crimson red colorway of the Nike Zoom VaporFly 4%, the brand’s $250 runner inspired by its Breaking2 campaign, an attempt to break the two-hour marathon barrier.

Nike released the Zoom VaporFly 4% to the public in July; however, it’s already sold out from the brand’s e-commerce site. A takedown version, known as the Zoom Fly, is available now from nike.com for $150.

There’s currently no confirmation on whether the crimson Zoom VaporFly 4% worn by Hart will be released to the public.

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These $24 Shoes

Cara Delevingne Celebrated Her 25th Birthday With These $24 Shoes

As we’ve seen from her latest “Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets” press tour, Cara Delevingne is always a knockout on the red carpet. The model-turned-actress has wowed the world with everything from her pink hair and pearl dress to her gorgeous crystal-embellished black pant suit.

This week, the star turned 25 — and she decided to celebrate the occasion by bringing all of her friends together for a fun Mexican getaway. Not surprisingly, Delevingne didn’t disappoint with her off-duty birthday style. Her squad kicked off the trip with matching all-red looks, followed by a sea of colorful swimsuits as they continued the supermodel’s special day on a boat.

Birthday girl Delevingne stood out in an all-white suit and a vibrant striped Issey Miyake coat, which she used as a beach coverup. But what really caught our eye was the matching flip-flops she wore. Delevingne took to Instagram to give her seal of approval on the yellow Havaianas, which you can purchase now for only $24 online. It’s no secret that the brand’s sandals are a summer staple, but now Delevingne gives us even more reason to stock up.

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fashion makeover

Android Wear hopes you care after fashion makeover

Earlier this month, I was sitting in a conventional conference room in Google's New York office, complete with the standard movable whiteboard, an oblong gray table, a conference phone and an intercom system.

This, however, was not the standard product briefing.

Roughly two dozen smartwatches sat on the table, bearing the names of trendy brands such as Tag Heuer and Movado. Yes, Google's head of Android Wear was in the room, but so were six sharply dressed representatives from the fashion world. The watches came in different materials, bands and, most importantly, sizes.

Consider this a second act for Android Wear, which has struggled since it came out of the gate three years ago at the Google I/O developer conference. Though people are starting to warm up to smartwatches, the ones they're buying are the Apple Watch or Samsung's Tizen-powered Gear S watches. Android Wear is missing out. Its most successful partner, Motorola, stopped making watches.

As result, the usual Android partners like Samsung and LG were nowhere to be found at the briefing. In their place were brands you're likely to see at a Macy's, from Emporio Armani to Michael Kors.

For David Singleton, who leads the Android Wear team for Google, the plethora of watches on the table were part of Android's philosophy to create different products that fit your unique tastes.

"It's really cool to be sitting here ... and really see that diversity we were aiming for really come to life," he said in an interview.

Fashion forward

It's no coincidence Google is opting for a more couture makeover. Its partnership with the Fossil Group, which makes watches for Michael Kors, Emporio Armani and Diesel, is one of its rare bright spots.

Fossil was the largest seller of Android Wear watches in the first quarter, according to IDC. Still, it made up only 5.7 percent of the global market, with Garmin and Samsung, which both use their own operating systems, ahead of it. Leading the pack was Apple, which makes up more than half the sale of smartwatches.

Still, Hannah Liu, director of wearables at Fossil, said she was seeing "hockey stick" level growth in smartwatches (which is admittedly easy when you're starting from zero).

And boy, are its customers obsessed with their watch faces. Liu said that over a 30-day period, Michael Kors smartwatch owners changed the face more than a million times.

That's why the array of watches on the table not only had a wide variety of different looks, they all had some custom aspect to the watch face as well. One Michael Kors watch had a unique face that pulled up photos from your Facebook or Instagram feed. A Fossil watch let you tweak the colors and look of the face, and share it with friends through a special code so other Fossil wearers could share in the look.

"If you've ever been in a 'bride tribe,' you know that would be useful," Liu said.

Addressing an early issue with bulky smartwatches, Liu added that the new collection includes smaller sizes to better accommodate female shoppers and consumers in the Asia-Pacific region.

The fashion brands may be eager to get into the game because Apple Watch is starting to eat their lunch, according to Avi Greengart, an analyst at Global Data. The Apple Watch is priced between $270 and $1,300, and many of these brands sit smack in the middle of that range.

"This is a conscious decision by the fashion brands," said Greengart.

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Bridget Malcolm

Bridget Malcolm: I follow my gut, not trends I don't feel comfortable with

When Bridget Malcolm was spotted by a modelling agency scout on the street at age 14, she put aside her classical music and ballet training for a hugely successful modelling career.

Now 25, she has been the face of Seafolly and Polo Ralph Lauren and walked in Victoria's Secret shows. She lives between LA and New York with her American musician husband, Nathaniel Hoho, and recently returned home to shoot David Jones' spring/summer campaign.

You play the oboe, piano and clarinet and considered being a professional musician. Is this still on the cards?

I don't think so, at least not in an orchestral sense. It takes a huge amount of work and discipline to be a successful classical musician. I enjoy jamming in a more relaxed setting. I'm working on a bachelor's degree in nutrition and would like to expand my business in health and wellness once that's completed.

Do you still play much music?

I do. I love the oboe very much and I'm a big fan of music in general. I have a soft spot for all '80s music – I saw New Order at [California music festival] Coachella recently, but I also love classical music. Seeing the New York Philharmonic is always such a treat.

You're vegan. What prompted that?

I'd always had vegetarian leanings, then one day I started watching documentaries on the PETA website, and that was it for me. I went full-time vegan in 2015 after years of on-again, off-again – and I feel great for it.

Describe your personal style.

Magpie meets street kid? Just kidding, but I do have a penchant for shiny objects! I love to wear good-quality basics – Levi's with a good vintage shirt, paired with a great bag and shoes.

Favourite item in your wardrobe?

A vintage Fleetwood Mac shirt I bought in Joshua Tree [in southern California]. That trip was unforgettable, and that shirt is so old I almost want to frame it.

What's your best fashion advice?

Just go with your gut and don't follow trends you're not comfortable with.

How do you and Nathaniel like to spend your leisure time?

We are so busy and spend so much time travelling that downtime is precious to us. It's usually spent outdoors – hiking, surfing and chilling in our backyard.

Any plans for a family?

We have had many discussions about this and are very excited about starting a family, but we have decided to wait a few more years. At the moment we are focused on each other and our careers but when the time comes, we are very ready for it.

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a Name in Shoes

Meet the Up-and-Coming Insider Label That’s Making a Name in Shoes


BASE: “Paris. It was obvious at the time because of the excellence in fashion you have here, the tradition and the new energy.”

MADE IN: Italy

BACKSTORY: “The shoes were conceived in France in collaboration with the famous shoemaker Massaro, and with Swarovski rocks.”

YOUR SHOES IN THREE WORDS: “Chic, contemporary and comfortable.”

CREATIVE PROCESS: “I create with intuitions first, not concepts. I drape, I try many times until I find the right shape or idea. In the end, I have to really want to wear the shoes. And I do.”

COMPETITIVE EDGE: “What I try to achieve is to mix something highly sophisticated with some youth culture energy and art influences to create a unique product you’ll find nowhere


SHOP TALK: Barneys New York and Tokyo, Le Bon Marché, Selfridges, Matches, Babylon.

BREAKTHROUGH MOMENT: “My first show. I had only one collection, and we made it with friends. There was a lot of energy and support in the middle of a busy crowded shopping mall. And already, big buyers and journalists were there. It was a blast.”

WISE WORDS: “Stay true to your vision, always.”

PROUDEST ACCOMPLISHMENT: “Koché is not 3 years old, and we have 60 selling points in more than 10 countries. I’m very proud for my studio and my team.”

MENTORS: “A lot of people were and still are important: Howard Tanguy at Central St. Martins, Virginie Viard at Chanel, Michele Lamy, Dries Van Noten.”

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Gold Coast Fashion Spotlight

At just 27-years-old, Karina Irby has reached the type of success some can only dream of. She's already amassed a huge following from her swimwear label, Moana Bikini and continues to expand her offering (including a sister business - Bikini Body Burn). Her vivid prints and cheeky cut bikini bottoms have become a staple for the brand, so much so that girls all over the world are flaunting and LOVING her designs.

Being based on the GC means Moana Bikini is the perfect subject for our Gold Coast Fashion Spotlight series! I had a chat to Karina to get to know about her journey to success, life as an entrepreneur and her favourite GC spots (of course!):

Was choosing to design bikinis always locked in for you? Had you considered designing any other type of clothing?

Oh gosh, designing bikinis… even designing other products or clothing… was never really a locked in plan for me… it just, kind of, happened! First and foremost, I just love bikinis. I have always lived, travelled to and wanted to be, at the beach. Bikinis are my favourite item of clothing.

Armed with an $800 loan from Dad, I entered the swimwear industry with 20 pairs of bikinis I sourced from overseas in a wholesaling arrangement. That agreement didn’t last long as I wanted to create my own designs and leave my own mark on the swimwear world. And now, seven years on, I guess it wasn’t a one-off thing! Dad has only just let me pay him back three months ago.

While it was a combination of weird and random occurrences that led to me starting Moana, looking back it all seems like it was meant to be.

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Utterly Casual Yacht Wedding

Nothing could be more fun than an utterly casual yacht wedding, although I can't say whatever gender restrooms are fun for all, doctor-patient confidentiality and what to do about a no-show guest, were questions to Didi Lorillard at NewportManners this week.


Q. At a seated dinner recently the man whose name was on the place card next to me didn't show up. It was a table of ten seated boy-girl, boy-girl, etc. His date didn't show up either, so there were two empty seats at our table of ten. A gate crasher took one of the vacant seats. He was the bride's hairdresser and was an entertaining fill-in. Someone suggested I move over a spot. I did but at a big table like that it is hard to equally talk to the person on your left and the person on your right when there is an empty space between you. I was impressed that the host came over right after we sat down to say he was sorry that the missing couple had to leave because of an emergency, and asked if it was alright if he sent over a gate crasher.

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The hard part for me was that the only actual person I sat next to was stuck with me and I with him. What would you have done, Didi? AV, Newport, RI

A. At some point before the entree was cleared, you could have suggested that the one person seated next to you switch seats with a person across the table. You could say, "Let's shake up the table a bit and switch you with George when the wedding cake is served." It takes social skills to make such a switch, but if you take the lead you can make it happen gracefully, if not humorously.

Doctor Patient confidentiality

Q. My husband and I are currently without health insurance and he's been taking an over-the-counter anti-depressent called SAM-e, which makes him irritable and at times either whiny or overly-anxious -- or both. His primary physician doesn't know he is taking SAMe. But I feel I should tell him. My husband insists it is as good, if not better, than any of the expensive prescription antidepressants he took when we had health insurance, pre Obamacare. Should I just be happy that he is no longer depressed and grin and bear the whining and anxiety. Long-Suffering Wife, West Bath, ME

A. The US Food and Drug Administration doesn't sufficiently regulate over-the-counter herbs supplements, so the jury is still out on whether antidepressants such as SAM-e are totally safe. What you can do is to persuade your husband to talk to his primary care physician about SAM-e to see if any medication he is also taking works with the SAM-e, or against it. For instance SAM-e could possibly affect bleeding risk if your husband is also taking any drug that affects bleeding, such as aspirin or blood thinners. Or if he takes a drug to control his blood pressure.

What you can say to your primary care doctor is this: I'm concerned that SAM-e may not be working well for Jack. Can you please talk to him about what he's taking, how much he's taking and how often, so that he can get a reality check on his mood swings.

His doctor may not know he's taking SAM-e, so you want to assume for the safety of your husband that his doctor knows about the SAM-e.

Utterly Casual Yacht Wedding

Q. My boyfriend and I are invited to a wedding taking place at sea on a yacht. What do we wear? What should we know about a yacht wedding? The dress code is Utterly Casual. Since there are 150 guests we don't want to be underdressed or overdressed. We're not sure what Utterly Casual means for a wedding on a boat! PH, Manhattan

A. You can assume that the bride and groom will be dressed casually, but more formally than their guests. They want everyone to relax and have a good time.

Most important is footwear. Shoes should be broken in so they won't slip or slide on slippery high polished flooring. Don't wear spiked heels that could damage any wooden floors.

Your boyfriend would wear a navy blue blazer or any lightweight linen jacket, a collared open shirt and dress khakis, colored or white trousers with possibly a rubber sole shoe. A tie would be optional.

As the bride will be dressed super casually, you wouldn't want to wear anything that might be dressier than what she's wearing. A jumpsuit would be terrific or any dress that moves well in the wind and on the dance floor that's not puffy with fabric or tacky with sequins.

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